Saturday, December 29, 2012

Job Offer .. Or Maybe Not

7:31am this morning: I got a job offer via email, to fill the Spiritual Care position I've mentioned over the past few weeks, Dec. 11th and Dec. 21st.

8:25am: I wake up.

8:29am: I read the job offer email.  Ecstatic.

8:31am: another email comes in.  It states that my job offer is withdrawn.  Apparently another applicant has accepted the offer.  Hmmm.

This doesn't smell good, and it definitely doesn't taste good.  Something very strange has happened and I need to get some answers.  Time to give Francis a call....

Significantly though, I was gutted when I read the withdrawal.  I think I was ready to embark on this path, and feel that it was taken out from under me.

I talked to my parents about this job, and they too thought that this was a great opportunity.  Dad made a reference to God answering my Camino-prayers, and mom said something to the effect of "this job is made for you."

I just don't understand what's going on.

God .. uhmmmm .. can you show up, please?

Saturday, December 22, 2012

Prairie Job: The Second Interview

I had a second job interview today for a job in Moose Jaw.

On the Camino I prayed for open doors vocationally, and I'm getting an increasing sense that moving to the prairies might actually be God's response to my prayers.  Here are 3 rasons I think this.

1- the basics.  A paycheque.  I haven't had a pay cheque in a long time!

2- the mission.  To be clear, #2 is much more important than #1.  Essentially, the work in Saskatchewan matches with my personal life mission statement.  Matthew 25:35-36, 40: feeding the hungry, welcoming the stranger, clothing the naked, visiting the sick, caring for the "least of these".  The needs of the world are intersecting with my passion.  It's all there.

3- the details.  The job is amazing, consisting of both clinical and management work.  The job is split, more or less 50/50, between Pastoral visits and management duties.  Talk about perfect.

I get emotionally exhausted by doing visits for more than 4-5 hours a day.  I need another aspect to complement the clinical side.  This job does that.  And how it does that!

Non-clinical time is spent envisioning and implementing measures that preserve and promote the Mission of the organization.  What's the Mission?  "To continue the healing ministry of Jesus."  Again, a perfect match.
4- the place.  I've always thought I'd like to experience living in a small town/city.  Community.  Simplicity.  Connection to place and people.  Natural food.  Raw beauty of creation.  In short, the Wendell Berry factor(s), MJ offers them.  Even in terms of weather, I think I'm ready to try cold but sunny, rather than mild and rainy.

To be sure, I'm sick of Vancouver.  The people, the politics, the pace, the secularism, the (lack of) work.  Suffocating.

5- the spirit.  This is about sanity.  I need to move on from my relational brokenness.  The air I breathe right now is toxic, because everything that I see and do is connected to my broken past (talk about a deja-vu from 2002!)

My window of opportunity is short: just over 2 months, Febraury 28th is R-day.  R = return.

Of course there are drawbacks to this move.  Am I escaping?  No MEC?  No mountains?  But if there is a time to move, the time is now.

Incredibly, I think that I may be getting an offer for the job in the next few days.  This is what they told me.  They seem as desperate to fill the position as I am in needing a shot of clean air.

This is scary.  It could be the perfect marriage, or disaster waiting to happen.

I have to trust that God is in this process.

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Camino de Santiago: Revelations II

Without a doubt, the theme that most occupied my mind while walking the 400kms in Spain a few months ago was relationships.  And one relationship in particular.

I've documented elsewhere my struggle in moving on from my previous Love, a struggle that has in recent weeks intensified, surely because of our meeting up in Spain a few months ago.  Significantly, my love for her has deepened, even though we don't get along nearly as well as we used to.  In fact, things have never been worse.

Unanswered emails.

Short, empty conversations.

Disinterest.

Distraction.

Ambiguity.

Cold.

It wasn't always like that....

And while I want things to improve, I am anxious about whether they will.

All signs seem to indicate in the opposite direction, actually.

The irony here is that in the light of my ponderings while and since walking, I've more or less decided that I am now at a point where I am willing to overlook worldview differences, in order to be with the woman that I love.  It's not the ideal scenario, but in a world of uncertainties and ambiguities, in a world of physical embodiment, in a world of freedom of choice (within the realm and under the control and direction of Providence) it's sometimes the only possible scenario.  

I think it's situations like these that best explain the incarnation of Jesus.  And it's situations such as these that best describe the need  for the incarnation of Christ.

Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have mercy on me, a Sinner.

So in the light of yet another relational disappointment, I once again remain to pick up the pieces, to begin building love again, one by one, block by block, beginning with the base.

The bigger picture to consider here - and this is the Revelation - is surely my need to come to terms with my identity as an unmarried man.  And bigger still, my identity as a man.  Currently I'm not there yet.  The ending 2-3 paragraphs here confirm that.

Sunday, December 16, 2012

Jesse Cook

Tonight I went to the Jesse Cook show at the Orpheum.  He is, by far, my favourite musician.


He played a good number of songs from his new cd, among them Broken Moon and Ocean Blue, but the best songs were I Put A Spell On You and Ne Me Quitte Pas, with the lovely and sensual Emma-Lee present on stage.

He also played his classics, among them Mario Takes A Walk, Switchback, and Tempest.  He played Gravity, a song he said he rarely plays, and more recent songs such as Bogota By Bus and Cecilia.  But without a doubt his best songs were Gaita and the ultra-classic Closer to Madness (what a brilliant name for the song).

Exquisite.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Prairie Job Interview. Crazy.

My good friend Tom and I have begun meeting for lunch every other week, more or less.  He used to work at St. Paul's Hospital, and since meeting him there we've struck some good conversations which we've kept going.

Almost two weeks ago, on November 28th, we were eating lunch, and I complained to him that I was having a difficult time coming to terms with my vocational direction, and specifically, that I felt helpless because of the bleak outlook for work in the near future.  One of the questions he asked me was "Are you willing to look for work beyond Vancouver?"  I said no I wasn't, at least not for the time being.

As we were having this conversation - no exaggeration - he received a text message from some guy named Francis, in Saskatoon.  Francis' message was short: "Looking for someone to work in spiritual care in Moose Jaw.  Know of anyone?"

Tom looked at me and said, I think you should go to the prairies.  As I said no thanks, Tom responded to the message: "Got someone, his name is Ed.  Here's his contact info."  

Thanks Tom...

Fast forward to today.

I had a job interview with Francis.  Yes, the one from Saskatoon.  He's looking for a Director in Moose Jaw (MJ), in south central Saskatchewan.  I began the conversation by telling him that I have no interest in moving to the prairies - not the best way to begin an interview process - but proceeded to listen to him "sell" me the job.  Crazy.

By the end of the conversation an hour later, I agreed for another interview, this time with the CEO and another person, I'm not sure who.

This is crazy.  I have no interest in moving to the prairies.

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Unequals

St. Paul says in 2 Corinthians 6:14: Do not be unequally yoked with unbelievers. For what partnership has righteousness with lawlessness? Or what fellowship has light with darkness?

For most of my life, this verse has always implied a command to marry someone who shares my values.  But given my experience in the past few years, where my best friend was someone who not only rejects my faith, but embraces non-belief in God, I am becoming increasingly dissatisfied with my theological conclusions.

Are Paul's words a command, or are they a call to Wisdom?  (Is there a difference between the two)?

What about God's command for Hosea to marry the prostitute?  How, if at all, does that text relate to St. Paul's?

What about the positive lived experience of so many couples who were, in Paul's language, unequally yoked?

Church history: didn't many converts in the early church come from marriages where at least one person (usually the man) wasn't a believer?

Does marrying someone outside my faith imply a lack of God's blessing in the future?  Am I limiting God's blessing upon me?

And what about everyday compatibility?  I hate the language of compatibility, but the truth is that we are attracted to some people and not to others.  Should not this factor dictate to a certain extent who we should pursue and who we shouldn't?

And then there's within-faith relationships built almost entirely on adherence to idealism.  These ideals are often abstract, doctrinal, easily rubbed out in the concreteness of daily life.  Witness to this is the current divorce rate within the church.

These are some of the questions that I have on my mind, and which I have posed to faith-filled people in my life.  The responses I've received have been surprising.

I still feel very connected to my best friend of the past 4 years.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Camino de Santiago: Revelations I

One of the reasons I think walking the Camino is a good experience is because one spends so much time on the road, that one is bound to - consciously or unconsciously - reflect on one's life.  And this time of self-reflection occurs not only as a result of spending time alone, but also (even more?) as a result of spending time with others, strangers, kindred spirits, pilgrims on the road of life.

Since returning from the Camino, I'm waking up to a "new" me, a new self-awareness is arising.  And while new revelations are usually two-fold, positive and negative, it's the unpleasant revelations that are harder to deal with.  Virtues and strengths are easy to accept because they are pleasing to the ego, but vices, shortcomings, and brokenness tear at the very heart of the ego and bring us back to "square one", so to speak.  They challenge us to do the hard work of reconciliation and healing with ourselves, our neighbour, and God.

And that's exactly where I'm at.  I'm looking in the "mirror", and am not entirely happy with what I see.  I see that the image I try to portray to the world is in many ways not an authentic image.  The front of happiness and having it all together is exactly that: a front.  And I'm not entirely sure what to do, I'm not sure how to deal with this revelation.  The only thing I can do for now is acknowledge it, and hope for further Revelation to move me forward.

Vocation: I've always envied those people who have since childhood known what they want to do with their lives.  My friend James, for example, has known since he was a young boy that he wanted to be a Pastor.  This awareness propelled him forward in his vocational trajectory with a comforting sense of purpose and direction.  My dad is another example.  After high school he went to school to be an electrician, and ever since, he's never doubted his vocation.  As a result of their self-awareness, it seems to me, they have a sense of certainty and confidence in their identity that facilitates authenticity and genuiness of personhood in all aspects of life.

I lack this authenticity, this confidence.  If I look at my vocational trajectory since graduation from university, I see a lack of focus: painting, administration, tourism, banking, human resources, information systems, teaching, materials handling, and pastoral care.  And this is just experience.  My educational trajectory is the same: business, physical education, computers, theology.  All over the map.

While I feel that I'm on the verge of something positive vocationally, having finished clinical pastoral studies, I am nevertheless anxious not so much about the future (God will take care of things somehow), but about my identity.  I can't help but think that I'm behind, in terms of identity formation, and consequently, I lack conviction and abound in indecision.  One of the areas this indecision comes to light, for example, is real estate: I have yet to lay down roots and buy a place to call my own, and I'm near mid-life!

I realize that I'm describing this self-realization in negative terms, and that God "writes straight with our crooked lines".  There are some positive aspects to my vocational trajectory that should not be left out.  I'm quite flexible, for one thing.  Theoretically, I can identify with many marketplace activities, because I've participated in many of them.  In terms of practical skills, I can paint a house, I can hire, train, and fire someone; I can organize a department or home, and I can speak words of comfort and encouragement in times of great pain and disappointment.  In God's economy, all of these skills are valuable.

But my tendency lately - perhaps it's a human tendency - is to focus on the negative aspects of myself.  I see the things that I lack, rather than the goodness that abounds.  Maybe this is because of the profound dissatisfaction, disappointment, even emptiness that I feel when I consider my brokenness.  And these feelings of inadequacy affect my life, my interactions with the world around me, so they matter a great deal.

So what is the way forward?  What next?

I am somewhat hopeful primarily because of the last 2 years, spent both in the classroom and at bedside.  I sense a rightness in my direction that I have not sensed before.  I don't know how this rightness will translate into personal fulfillment and financial stability, but I live with a sense of anticipation as to how this will materialize.

But it has to be said that since returning from Spain, my sense of hopefulness is quite often eclipsed by a sense of anxiety, anguish, and acedia.  Except for the odd painting job for a friend or two, I'm not really working at the moment.  The distant future may be bright in terms of clinical pastoral jobs in my city, but the short to medium term looks cloudy at best.  I have too much time to think, and don't spend enough time actively engaged in the concrete matters of the world.  I lack motivation and feel emotionally stagnant and disconnected.  Even faith, family and friendships aren't providing the stable support that they have in the past.

I'm left, then, with a Revelation that cuts both ways.  It's sobering, inviting me to see the brokenness within myself, and deal with it.  It invites me to look in the mirror and see the demons within me which want to keep me from becoming fully human, which want to prevent my being formed more and more into the image of Jesus.  It's a call to repentance.

On the positive side, God is inviting me to see the already good within me.  God is at work deep inside me, even though it's not always evident.  Truthfully, I feel distant and in many ways alienated from God, but His invitation to see the Good inside stands.

Both sides, the positive and the negative, are ultimately an invitation to further intimacy and union with Him.  

Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have Mercy on me, a Sinner! 

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Sharing The Camino - This Time With Friends

Tonight I had a good number of friends - betweeen 15 and 20 - over to watch my slideshow on the Camino.  I think it was a great success.

It was a Spanish-themed evening.  I prepared 2 tortilla españolas, I had a few bottles of wine on hand, including termpranillos and albariños.  I also made bocadillos with queso manchego and jamón serrano.  For dessert I had flan that I bought at a Latin Supermarket near Joyce Street.
  
I was quite surprised of the discussion that ensued after watching the presentation.  People had many questions for me: what did I like most about the Camino?  How demanding was it physically?  What was the food like?  What kind of people did you meet?  What was a typical day like?  Some friends even asked questions regarding the spiritual life on the Camino, and that was surprising.

I still haven't been able to figure out how to add the slideshow to this site.

Sunday, November 11, 2012

Interior Painting

Our good friend Benja moved to Toronto a few weeks ago, as a result of which he decided to sell his apartment here in the city.  Actually, he didn't have much choice: his Strata Council didn't allow him to rent out the apartment.

So for the past few weeks, in addition to helping him pack his stuff in preparation for the move, I've also been doing some painting in his apartment.

This has brought back some very good memories from my university days.  I remember in my 3rd and 4th year, I painted in the summers, and I loved it.

I find painting therapeutic somehow.  There's some kind of a healing agent that kicks in when you brush the stroke up and down, covering the old with the new, the dirty with the clean, the stained with the shiny.  Maybe it mirrors God's grace, I don't know.

Before leaving for the Camino I applied for a Pastoral Care job in a local long term facility, but that job didn't come through.  So in a sense I'm back to square one in terms of looking for work, and so in the meantime I don't mind doing some painting.  I'm even thinking of putting an ad on craigslist, who knows, maybe I'll get a contract or something.

Monday, November 05, 2012

Sharing The Camino

Since returning from Spain, I've been working virtually full time on putting together a slide show presentation that I can show family and friends.

It's been quite a rich experience actually, putting it together.  Seeing all the pictures, organizing them, and synchronizing them to music has been a great process.  It's helped me make sense of it all, put it  in perspective and integrate it.

I've shed lots of tears, putting it together.  I remain incredibly impacted by the whole experience.

Today I presented the show to my family.  They all liked it.  A few of them (mostly nephews and nieces) jokingly said that they now want to walk the Camino.  Tante Mariane said it too, which surprised me.  Actually, speaking of surprises, I think of all the people, she liked it most!  I thought she wouldn't like it at all...

I tried uploading the slideshow to this site, but the file's just too big: 1.3 Gigabytes.  I also tried a few other sites, but same story: file's too big.  Anyone got any advice on which website I can upload it on and then link it to here?  I only have one requirement (I'm very reasonable!): I don't want to pay to upload.

Thursday, November 01, 2012

Back To Hiking

Since returning from the Camino 2 weeks ago, I've gone hiking 4 times.  Three times I hiked the BCMC with Shane, and once I went to to Lynn Valley with Anoush.

I find hiking to be such a spiritually nurturing experience, it's hard to put it into words.  I recently heard that there's a Mennonite writer who considers walking a spiritual discipline, and I wonder if he's onto something.  I want to explore this further.

Monday, October 22, 2012

White Rock Wedding

Today Vero and Ervin got married.  It's been a pleasure witnessing these 2 friends growing closer and closer, and it was very special, seeing them join as one.

The wedding took place in White Rock, where about 80 or so friends and family members gathered on an overcast and windy day.  Vero and Ervin's wish was for the wedding to take place outdoors on the deck overlooking the water, and they got their wish.  At various points during the day it seemed like the weather wouldn't hold and it would rain, but it didn't.  As the first few pictures below show, the setting was ideal.

Vero's sister came from Argentina, and I sat beside her (in the front row!) as sort of an interpreter.  I say sort of, because I realized right from the get-go that it's hard to interpret someone's preaching.




After the ceremony the festivities continued indoors.  We ate a nice buffet dinner.  I think Michael and others prepared the food.  Other friends from our soccer group contributed in various ways, from transporting the sound system, dj-ing, setting up and taking down tables and chairs.  I liked how resources were used from within Vero and Ervin's circle of friends and family, rather than hiring professional companies to do the work.  It communicates how all of us have a "stake" in making their marriage work.

Personally, I think it's important to hold weddings in a church, so if I ever get married I would insist on that, but other than that I liked the simplicity of today's celebration.  The joy we experienced was indeed a foretaste of the heavenly wedding banquet that St. John speaks of in the book of Revelation. 





Lord, bless these wonderful friends who have declared their covenant of love for each other before You and family and friends.  In this day and age, where relationships are seen as seasonal, temporal, and changing, may their marriage be a strong symbol - a sacrament - pointing to your relentless, unchanging, and unwavering love for us, your children.  I pray this for Vero and Ervin, through Christ our Lord.  Amen.

Thursday, October 18, 2012

2 Days In In Pamplona

The past two days I've been in Pamplona visiting with Juan, Yueh-Hsin, and little Lorenzo.  They are amazing hosts.

For the most part, Juan and I ventured around town, and he showed me many great places in his city: the old walls, the cathedral (and other churches), the old part of town, the route of the running of the bulls, and many other places.






The highlight for me though was a day-trip to a monastery in Leyre, and then afterwards to Xavier, two very historical places.  The monastery in particular, as most of them do, made a positive impact on me.  The setting of it was stunning, overlooking a a valley and a lake.







Tomorrow bright and early, Juan will drive me to Bilbao, where I will catch a flight home to Vancouver.  Here ends my trip.  

The night before I began walking the Camino, I met a guy from Barcelona.  He was close to my age, and upon finding out that I was about to begin walking my first Camino, he said: "You'll be back.  There's something about the Camino that brings people back for more.  You'll be back.  You can be sure of that."

He was right.  Absolutely right.  I hope to return and walk again, which route, I'm not sure yet.  Maybe the Camino Portugues, or maybe I'll complete the Norte route.  And actually, I wouldn't be opposed to doing the Primitivo again.  It was that good.

But I think next time I walk, I'd like company.  As much as I hate to admit it, walking on my own was a bit lonely at times.  I'm an idealist, and think that there is a difference between solitude and loneliness, the former being a positive state, the second one a negative.  And there have been times in my life, even lengthy periods, where I felt quite comfortable, and even thrived, being alone, but presently that's not the case.  I don't know, I can't explain it.  Peace come and goes.  It's elusive, like the wind.  Lord have mercy. 
 
In the meantime, goodbye Spain.  Thanks for the wonderful hospitality.  Hasta la próxima.

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Camino de Santiago: Concluding Thoughts


Today is my last day in Santiago.  Tonight at 11pm I take a bus to Pamplona where I will visit with Juan for a few days before returning home. I offer here some thoughts on my Camino experience.

* preparation matters: in terms of packing, I did well.  I fit all my belongings in a 36L backpack. I should've been better prepared in terms of footwear though.  One-year old, wornout trekking shoes don't cut it.

* there's healing in walking: say what you will, but the human spirit is refreshed, renewed, and rejuvenated by walking. 

* Spain's cup of coffee, the café con leche, is by far the best cup of coffee I've ever tasted.

* other specialties, like the biscocho cake, jamón iberico or jamón serrano, and sopa de lentejas, are all well worthy of high praises.

* go wooly: synthetics stink.  Wool, on the other hand, keeps you cool in the heat, warm in the cold, and it doesn't stink.  It does take some getting used to in terms of wearing (itchy), and it's not very strong or sturdy.

* religious: Spain is less secular than expected.  I'm sure this is because the places I visited and the people I met are familiar with or even committed to the spiritual life.  Still, refreshing.

* walking limits: my limit seems to be 20 kms per day.  25kms is uncomfortable but do-able occasionally, and 30+ kms is downright painful.

* openness: the high number of pilgrims I met who were open to talk about God seem to indicate that people are searching for meaning.  "I want to have hope", said Markus.

* reading discipline: I'm glad that I brought a New Testament along.  I read through the first two gospels and had plenty of time for reflection.

* tempranillo: finally a red wine that I can drink without getting a headache.  Spanish red wine.  And not only the tempranillo, but the crianza too.  And it's ok to chill red wine in the fridge!

* sharing sucks: if you don't believe me, try sharing a bathroom with 20 others.  It's a stretching experience.  Wear flip-flops.

* small towns: I'd like to live in one, one day.  There's a seeming simplicity to living in a small town that I find really appealing.  But I imagine that it can be a lonely place too, if you're an outsider.
 
* company: I enjoyed walking alone, sometimes.  On the Primitivo there are less people, which means that I spent a lot of time alone.  I think I'd have enjoyed the walking experience more with a trusted friend or companion.  Jennifer would've been such a partner, even though our walking limits differ.  I'd gladly compromise, to accommodate her.

* irony: why is it that even though I feel lonely at times I push people away?  There were a number of opportunities to mingle and get to know others, but I often shied away, spending time alone instead.

* self-acceptance: I have not accepted myself yet.  Is it just me or do others feel like they're a failure too?

* closed doors: I wish more churches or chapels were open along the way.  I'd probably have walked slower, and found more places to force myself to reflect. 

* walking stick: I'm torn.  A stick does help when walking, especially when walking long distances.  It helps me keep my balance.  But I don't like always having something in my hands while I walk.

* rhythmic prayer: the Jesus Prayer and prayer beads are the solution to a wandering mind.  Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have Mercy on me, a Sinner!

Monday, October 15, 2012

Pilgrim's Mass: Take 2

I attended Mass again today, but whereas yesterday I sat in the main nave of the church, today I sat in the transept.  I was much closer to the front, and had a better view of the botafumeiro.



For much of the rest of the day I walked around the city and took pictures.










Santiago is a city that seems entirely immersed in the Camino experience.  Everything in the city, at least in the old core, seems to revolve around the Way of St. James.  Sure, much of it is a tourist trap, but I dare say that faith is quite alive in the city.  For example, I saw at least two bookstores - one of them quite large - right in the middle of the city.  

But what struck me about these bookstores is that in addition to the many books with tourist appeal, both had a substantial selection of theological books.  I spent a good 2 hours browsing through interesting titles and authors, from C S Lewis to G. K. Chesterton, from Pope Gregory the Great to John Paul II and Pope Benedict, from St. Francis to St. Benedict to St. Teresa of Avila, and from Karl Rahner to Henri de Lubac.  I even saw a book or two of the Reformed tradition, by Karl Barth, for example.  Surprising.

Many books were available in various languages.  And the stores were packed.  Lots of customers. I'm not sure a city's spiritual well-being can be judged by the number and kind of theological books it has on offer, but at the same time, I'm not willing to discount that possibility either.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Pilgrim's Mass in Santiago

Today was a day to savour my arrival at Santiago.

I slept in in the morning.

I went to the cathedral to take more pictures.



 I attended the Pilgrim's Mass.  The botafumeiro was a bit of a spectacle, but it was impressive.  The sermon was, well, let's just say there's room for improvement.  But the liturgy, the Mass, absolutely glorious.  I'm more convinced than ever that the unity of the church is most vivid and present in the living Christ who gives himself to us in the bread and wine.  




I really like the plaque above.  It's placed near the tomb of the Apostle James, and it contains the words of Pope John Paul II, himself a Camino pilgrim, and reads:

"I, bishop of Rome and Pastor of the Catholic Church, send to you, old Europe, from Santiago, a cry of love: Return and find yourself, be yourself."

I'd say it's a challenge, an indictment, but probably most of all a lament, for Europe to find herself, to find her true identity again.  She's lost her spiritual roots, those elements that made her glorious once.  And in losing her roots, she's lost her identity, her means of being a blessing to the world.

After Mass I went for a snack with Leah and Cathy, pictured below.



Saturday, October 13, 2012

Day 17: O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela (20 Kms)

I got up at 7:15 this morning and immediately noticed that I was one of the last pilgrims to get up that "late".  In fact, many had already begun walking.  I'd heard a few days prior that pilgrims begin walking really early here, with the hopes of arriving in Santiago in time for the Pilgrim's Mass at noon.  Turns out this is actually true!

After drinking a coffee, I began walking too.

I still had to wear my frontales (head lamp), as the picture below indicates, because it was still too dark, especially in forested areas.



But even after sunrise, it was foggy until well after 10.




 Just after 10am I stopped at Casa Porta de Santiago for a bicocho and a hot chocolate.

Today's route was pretty easy, no ups and downs, just pretty much a straight road.  This is probably the main reason that I did excellent time, arriving in Santiago at 1:30pm.  By 2:30 I had my Compostela (certificate).



I walked around the main city square and cathedral area, taking pictures, and eventually ran into Leah and Cathy, a mother-and-daughter team from Vancouver Island that I'd met yesterday on the road.  They'd walked all the way from St. Jean Pied de Port.  We took some pictures, before agreeing to meet up again for the Pilgrim's Mass tomorrow.



At 4:30 I checked into my pre-arranged accommodations, the Pension Badalada.

The next few hours were priceless: lying in bed, reflecting, napping, showering, shaving (!), and watching Lord of the Rings, which happened to be showing on tv at the time.

I ate dinner at Rúa Bella, a restaurant owned by an Argentinian.  The hostess at Badalada, too, is from Argentina.

A few emotional moments worth mentioning about today.

1- leaving the albergue "for the last time."  Although I didn't write much about friendships formed over the past few weeks, I do think that a certain camaraderie is established among Camino pilgrims at the hostels.  Pilgrims are "linked" to each other - because of the blisters, the meals, the exhaustion, the elation, the disappointments and the successes - in a way that perhaps only someone who's walked the Way can understand.

2- entering the outskirts of Santiago.  There was definitely a "buzz" among the Pilgrims.  Spirits were high, pain was either forgotten or ignored, cameras were out, and smiles were on everyone's faces.  This was definitely contagious.  I teared up on several occasions.

3- crossed fences.  As the two pictures below show, the Camino passed a number of fences that were filled with stick-crosses.  Walking by what seemed like kilometers of cross-filled fences was very emotional for me.  When did this tradition begin?  Who are the people who put them up?  What are their stories, pre-, during, and post-Camino?  These were questions that raced through my head.  

I also noticed that there were numerous partial crosses that people had placed strategically - either horizontally or vertically - along the fence, inviting me to "complete" the cross.  Where a horizontal stick was already placed, I would add the vertical stick to make it into a cross, or where a vertical stick had been placed, I completed it by adding the horizontal piece.  I participated in this tradition, walking slowly, meditating on the significance that each of these crosses could hold.  A few times I began weeping, not really caring if others saw me in such a "weak" state.  On one occasion another pilgrim smiled compassionately.  On another occasion a local nodded his head forward in what seemed like some kind of solidarity.  It was beautiful, sacred, perhaps one of the most holy moments of the entire Way.



4- arrival at the Cathedral.  Naturally, this was a highlight, but there were so many people around, it was hard to be present in the moment, much less dwell on the significance of the accomplishment.  All in all, a bit anti-climactic.

Below is the video I took upon arrival at the cathedral.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Day 16: Arzúa - Pedrouzo (17 Kms)

Another great night's sleep on the Camino.  What I've learned in the past few weeks is that physical exhaustion is a significant factor towards ensuring a good, sound sleep!  And yes, there was heating.  I was able to keep warm all night.

Below is a picture of a coffee bar at breakfast, full of pilgrims getting ready for the day's walk.  This picture was taken after 8am.  It was still dark outside.


It rained on and off throughout the morning.  Even so, the way was packed with many walkers.  And whereas in previous days I'd encountered a maximum of 20 pilgrims in a day (and this only happened once, maybe twice), today I encountered a number easily surpassing 100.  I couldn't help but think of the Grouse Grind throughout today's walk.

At around 11:20 I arrived in Salceda, having already completed 9 kms.  In Salceda enjoyed a fabulous bocadillo de ternera with an iced tea.

Shortly after I resumed walking, I encountered this make-shift shrine (below), commemorating previous pilgrims who'd walked the Camino and died along the way.  I heard a story about a man who'd walked the entire Camino Francés and then promptly collapsed on this stretch of the road.  Hearing this story reminded me of the numerous dangers that previous pilgrims had to endure to get to Santiago.  I'm thankful that today the road is very safe.


I found Pedrouzo a bit unusual, because there were farms interspersed in the middle of town.  The picture below, for example, was taken a mere block and a half from the main road.


For me the highlight of Pedrouzo was the small but lovely church.  It's such a gem.  At the back of the church, behind the altar, is a gigantic shell, carved into the wall.  The picture below gives an idea of what I'm referring to.


I ate dinner at Café Che, and I ate spaghetti bolognese.  I think this may only be the 2nd or 3rd time that I ate pasta since beginning the Camino.

The albergues on the French route are much bigger than on the Primitive route.  Here in Pedrouzo, for example, there are upwards of 80 people staying in the hostel.  This makes for a cozy atmosphere, to be sure, but it makes using the washrooms rather unpleasant.  Today by the time I got to use the shower, there was no hot water left.

I'm excited, thrilled.  Tomorrow is the last day of walking.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Day 15: Sobrado Dos Monxes - Arzúa (23 Kms)

After going a week without walking, I was itching to get back on the road this morning.

I got up early, I was ready to go by 7:15am.  At 7:30 I went to Mass.  I'm tired of attending without being able to partake.  Other than that, beautiful, inviting liturgy.

After Mass, I had breakfast with my Spaniard friends one last time.  We gave each other a warm going-away hug at the end, before saying farewell, Godspeed!

I hit the road around 8:30, with a bittersweet feeling.  Bitter - enveloped in feelings of loss, longing and loneliness; sweet - encouraged by conversations with the various staff, monks and reteratants; and eager to see what lay ahead on the Camino.

As I began walking, my eyes were tear-filled.  Why?



I stopped for a coffee at the 7.5km mark in Carredoras.  The hostess there was a very friendly lady who was not at all shy about telling me of all the troubles burdening her beloved España.

Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have mercy on Spain!

At the 13.5km mark I stopped in Sendelle, were a very friendly lady gave me a tour of the town church.


As soon as I left Sendelle it began to pour, and I walked in the rain for a good hour before it stopped and the sun tried to peak through.


I arrived in Arzúa late afternoon, and noticed immediately that this was a very busy town.  That's because here the various routes converge before the final stretch to Santiago.

Unlike at previous locations where there was always a bed available at the inn, here I was turned away a few times before I finally found lodging at the Albergue Los Caminantes.  The hospitalera here is an energetic woman, a firecracker, really, who welcomed all of us pilgrims with great  enthusiasm and good humour.

As I headed out for dinner a few hours later (and still way too early for the rest of Spain to head out for dinner), it began to rain again.  I ate dinner at Restaurante Carballeira.  I journalled there for quite a while, before, during, and after my meal.

Below, a picture of the soup, caldo gallego, that I enjoyed for dinner.

The weather's chilly.  I hope the hostel has heating.