Showing posts with label pilgrimage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pilgrimage. Show all posts

Sunday, June 07, 2015

Spain Beckons


 What struck me about yesterday's performance was that it included student performers, young and old.  Watching kids - especially this one little boy - doing the moves, snapping their fingers, tapping their fee, was just amazing.  They had us roaring in approval...


Of course it wasn't just students, but some professionals too.  Here's the only picture I took of the evening:


At the end of the performance they had a Q&A session, and one of the questions asked by a crowd member was whether or not the guitarist offered lessons.  He smiled and nodded in approval...."Yes.  Give us a call", he said.  My heart lept.  I wonder whether I should...

All this talk about flamenco and music - Jesse Cook, Gipsy Kings, etc... - is convincing me more and more that I need to return to Spain. Places like Malaga and Sevilla are beckoning.  That's where greats like Carlos Montoya, Camaron, and Paco de Lucia hail from.  Now, more than ever, I want to go there and immerse myself in flamenco culture...

I also want to walk the Camino again.  Maybe take a different route...like the Portugués; or if I have less time, maybe the Inglés; or maybe I need to re-interpret my last walk - so many things have changed - and re-do the Original.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Another Camino?

I've been itching to do another Camino.

Thanks to one of my coworkers who connected me with someone who'd recently completed the Camino de Santiago and who was eager to share her experiences, I met with her and a few others who have completed the walk in the past few years.  Their stories and enthusiasm brought back memories of my own experience of 1.5 years ago, and made me want to pack my backpack and get on the plane again.  Like, now.

But even before this conversation I was already pondering it.  I don't know yet what the purpose would be, but that will become clear as time goes on.

Possible timeframes are later this year in September, but more likely, mid-2015, in May.  I'm too new in my job right now to request for a month off.

Which route would I take?

How far would I walk?

Go alone or find another soul-searcher to join me?  Who?

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Restless

The plan a few weeks ago was to go to Winnipeg for a few days in mid-February, before heading down to Mexico.  But I'm having second thoughts.  I may skip Winnipeg.

I've been thinking lots about walking the Camino again.  Maybe September timeframe.

But that would mean I cut my trip to Mexico short by a good 3-5 days, so I can tack those vacation days on to my trip to Spain.

Why do I want to walk so badly?

Sunday, October 27, 2013

A Pathway: My Next Painting

After a three-month break, I took up painting again today.  My next painting's going to be of a pathway in the woods.


Ever since I got into hiking and walked the Camino in Spain, I've become enamoured with pathways.  Reading Arthur Boers' book The Way is made by Walking last year augmented this appreciation by exploring the theme of walking and pilgrimage from biblical, historical, spiritual, and theological perspectives.  It's almost as though Boers elaborated in words on a theme that I'd grown to appreciate experientially - by walking! - over the past 10 years.  Not only that, Boers' exploration of the theme confirmed something that I'd known intuitively for years: something happens to us when we walk.  Something spiritual.  God speaks to us. 

I've experienced this Voice over and over again, first when I started living car-less in Vancouver, going to many places on foot, but more particularly this past year after moving to the prairies, walking to/from work almost everyday.  In the morning, I pray while walking through Crescent Park.  In admiring the beauty around me, my spirit is taken up as it were, to contemplate God's own beauty.  The colours.  The smells.  The sounds.

But walking is conducive not just to praise, thanksgiving, and adoration, but also to repentance, lamentation, and supplication.  The most common words coming out of my mouth while in the park are Lord, Jesus Christ, have mercy on me, a sinner!  I tell God all my troubles.  I repent of my sins.  I ask for mercy.

It makes perfect sense to me that Boers considers regular walks a spiritual discipline, along the same lines as fasting or prayer.  When we walk, as when we pray or fast, things important for our spiritual well-being mysteriously come to the fore.  And mysteriously, God meets us there, on the way.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Camino: Day 17 Revisited

Exactly a year ago I arrived in Santiago de Compostela.  Seventeen days of walking, covering 400 kms.  Upon arrival, here are the lines I wrote in my little blue notebook.

* woke up at 7:15am - I was just about the last one to get up; cafe con leche
* began walking at 8am: still dark - used frontales (head lights) for 1 hour
* stopped at 10am at Casa Porta de Santiago for biscocho and cola cao (hot cocoa)
* praise God!  arrived in Santiago at 1:30pm - did good time - praise
* 2:30pm - got my Compostela (certificate)
* 3pm - pictures
* 3:30 saw Leah and Cathy - more pictures
* 4:30 checked in at Badalada
* 5-7, cleaned up, shaved; Lord of the Rings was showing on tv!
* dinner at Rúa Bella
* very emotional approaching Santiago crosses on fence moved me; I was in tears on several occasoins; why?  Not sure...







Saturday, October 12, 2013

Camino: Day 16 Revisited

Here's what I wrote a year ago after completing the 16th day of walking on the Camino de Santiago:

* woke up at 7:20am; left albergue at 8; breakfast at 8:30; began walking at 9
* cafeteria was packed with peregrinos!
* 9kms completed by 11:20
* bocadillo de ternera upon arrival in Salceda
* Camino Francés is like Grouse Grind: packed full of people!
* albergue in Pedrouzo
* beautiful church (even though very small), and it was open!  it had a shell-shaped back wall; beautifully lit!
* dinner at Che Cafe; spaghetti bolognese, albondigas con arroz, and caldo gallego; of course, café con leche afterwards - damn, coffee is good in Spain!
* somewht sad that it all ends tomorrow



Thursday, October 10, 2013

Camino: Sobrado Revisited

After my 3rd and final day of rest in Sobrado last year on this day, this is how I felt:

* attended Laudes and Eucaristo; very lovely - there's something special about this monastery
* I'm still unsettled [after Jennifer's departure yesterday] - a tremendous feeling of desolation has come upon me; why do I feel so alone?
* monasteries always bring me face to face wtih my neediness and brokenness
* and yet, in the chapel, looking at the crucified One, I find peace; or, maybe Peace finds me...
* walked around town in the afternoon
* Visperas and Completas: "Salve Regina" - so beautiful!
* tomorrow the Camino continues: Lord have mercy!
* cleaned up room before going to sleep

Saturday, September 28, 2013

Camino: Day 7 Revisited

This is what I had for breakfast a year agoBiscocho y cafe con leche.  Unbeatable, in my humble opinion.


I paid for the first biscocho.  Miguel gave me one "for the road".  I finished it well before the halfway mark.

Here's what I thought about a year ago during the walk.

In reflecting on my walk over the past few days, I'm coming to the conclusion that I have a deep discomfort, even dislike, with who I am.  In the eyes of the world I must be a nobody: no career, no family, no property, no car.  Nothing.  What do I have to show for my 42 years of living?  Seemingly nothing.

I know that God is not looking for any accomplishments.  In his eyes I'm a deeply valued person, created in his image, but I still feel massively disappointed with who I am.  I don't meet my own standards (nevermind the world's).  I feel like a failure quite often.

I guess this is what walking alone for long periods of time can do: it's like facing a mirror for a long time.  As you keep looking at it, you begin to see yourself without a mask on, as you really are.  You see the warts, the freckles, the imperfections, signs of age, etc...  I'm not as bad as I make it out to be here, but I'm certainly not as good and happy as I pretend to be.

I'm not sure if the way I feel about myself has changed significantly in the past year.  I keep thinking "if only this happened...." or "if only I could......" or "if only that issue was resolved..."

Maybe others are more satisfied with their lives than I am, but I doubt it.

I have a massive hunger to do another Camino.  But this time the purpose would be much less about discernment, and much more about the search for and enjoyment of community.

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Camino: Day 6 Revisited

Here were my notes last year after the 20km journey from San Juan Villapañada - Salas.

* early start, again, around 8am
* breakfast in Cornellana (8km)
* Monasterio del Salvador a nice site for pics; in ruins
* feet are killing me; left foot especially, 3-4 blisteres; right foot ok, but developing blister on big toe
* 20kms [a day] ok, but still "too much"
* staying @ Miguel's Albergue La Campa; restaurant [attached to albergue] has fantastic food, home-made; biscocho was excellent
* best meal in Spain, so far
* lentejas soup
* cold, maybe 8C @ night; little heating
* Casa cultura: free internet

Cornellana:

Sigue la flecha (follow the arrow)

Albergue La Campa

Monday, September 23, 2013

Camino: Day 4 Revisited

Here are the personal notes I took exactly a year ago, after 4 days of  walking the Camino del Norte.  The distance covered on this day was 30kms, connecting Deba with Zenarruza (via Markina-Xemein).

* hardest day yet!  but my God, what beautiful places I saw!
* walked alone most of the day, but I took a lunch break about 12ks in with Jacob, Arman, and "the French girl"
* in Markina I had a beer with Markus, Angelo, and a few Spaniards [addition: Markus here managed to weird us all out by ordering, simultaneously, a beer and a coffee; the Spaniards were especially amused by this combination of beverages]
* walked Markina to Zenarruza with Markus; we had a nice conversation: "What is sin?"  "Is ignorance sin"?  Markus said no, I said yes; not sure...
* monastery in Zenarruza welcomed me
* glad to take a break now, even though I met a great bunch of people

A few pictures.  Leaving Deba:

Rancher in the mountains:

Way Marker:

Saturday, September 21, 2013

The Camino: Answered Prayers

A year ago yesterday I began my pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago.  How time flies...

It may seem strange, but since walking the Camino, not a day has gone by that I didn't think about that amazing experience.  For one, I think it quite possibly may be the most significant accomplishment of my life, and so it makes sense that it's still on the forefront of my mind.  

But on another level, there are at least two events in my life that occurred as a direct result of the pilgrimage, and because of this connection, I often think back to the long walk that I took to Santiago de Compostela, and how it changed my life.  These two events are: vocational and relational changes.

The sobering thing about the changes in working and loving, is that I prayed for direction and discernment on both.  I prayed that God would lead me in my search for meaningful work, and I prayed that God would guide me in my search for a life partner.  And astonishingly, God answered both, radically.  The first prayer item was answered within 4 months of my walk.  And the second, well, it was maybe answered a long time ago already, but I only recognized the answer upon my return from Spain.

Vocation.  Last year at this time I was working in Spiritual Care, the general area that I've sensed God directing me towards over the past 4 years.  But the format was part-time, on-call, and in a secular institution that I felt little connection to.

Today, I am working in Spiritual Care, but in a capacity that enables me to contribute in a significant way not only to the lives of residents, but to the life of the institution itself.  It helps too that the facility is faith-based, and highly regarded in the community.

Relationships.  In a sense, nothing has changed here: I'm still a bachelor!  But on another level, there's been a seismic shift.  My best friend of 4 years is virtually absent from my life.  Desolation.  And other friendships too, are radically altered.  I now spend a lot of time alone, much more than I'm comfortable with.  And while I have made new friends in my new city, it just doesn't feel quite like home yet.  Yet.

Prayer is dangerous.  God hears our prayers.  Worse yet, He answers them.  Be careful what you pray for.

A year ago I'd never have imagined such drastic changes.  Leaving the mountains for the prairies.  Exchanging dark and wet days for clear and cold days.  Good bye city.  Hello farmland.  Geography.  That's all that changed, really.  A new postal code.  And yet, it wasn't just a move.  It was a Call.  A call that demanded a response.  Obedience.

God's ways are excruciatingly frustrating.  But then, perhaps in my more sober or lucid moments, not to mention less narcissistic moments, I'm reminded of God's words to the prophet Isaiah: "For my thoughts are not your thoughts, neither are your ways my ways, declares the Lord.  For as the heavens are higher than the earth, so are my ways higher than your ways, and my thoughts than your thoughts" (Isaiah 55:8-9).

Indeed.

Rarely are my thoughts lofty enough to leave even the earthly atmosphere, never mind reach the heights of heaven.

I prayed.  God answered.  But in a way that I neither expected nor hoped for.

Still, I am thankful for His answers, His ways.  At least I'm beginning to be.  I must be.  What else is there?

Change is hard.

Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have Mercy on me, a Sinner.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Camino de Santiago: Revelations I

One of the reasons I think walking the Camino is a good experience is because one spends so much time on the road, that one is bound to - consciously or unconsciously - reflect on one's life.  And this time of self-reflection occurs not only as a result of spending time alone, but also (even more?) as a result of spending time with others, strangers, kindred spirits, pilgrims on the road of life.

Since returning from the Camino, I'm waking up to a "new" me, a new self-awareness is arising.  And while new revelations are usually two-fold, positive and negative, it's the unpleasant revelations that are harder to deal with.  Virtues and strengths are easy to accept because they are pleasing to the ego, but vices, shortcomings, and brokenness tear at the very heart of the ego and bring us back to "square one", so to speak.  They challenge us to do the hard work of reconciliation and healing with ourselves, our neighbour, and God.

And that's exactly where I'm at.  I'm looking in the "mirror", and am not entirely happy with what I see.  I see that the image I try to portray to the world is in many ways not an authentic image.  The front of happiness and having it all together is exactly that: a front.  And I'm not entirely sure what to do, I'm not sure how to deal with this revelation.  The only thing I can do for now is acknowledge it, and hope for further Revelation to move me forward.

Vocation: I've always envied those people who have since childhood known what they want to do with their lives.  My friend James, for example, has known since he was a young boy that he wanted to be a Pastor.  This awareness propelled him forward in his vocational trajectory with a comforting sense of purpose and direction.  My dad is another example.  After high school he went to school to be an electrician, and ever since, he's never doubted his vocation.  As a result of their self-awareness, it seems to me, they have a sense of certainty and confidence in their identity that facilitates authenticity and genuiness of personhood in all aspects of life.

I lack this authenticity, this confidence.  If I look at my vocational trajectory since graduation from university, I see a lack of focus: painting, administration, tourism, banking, human resources, information systems, teaching, materials handling, and pastoral care.  And this is just experience.  My educational trajectory is the same: business, physical education, computers, theology.  All over the map.

While I feel that I'm on the verge of something positive vocationally, having finished clinical pastoral studies, I am nevertheless anxious not so much about the future (God will take care of things somehow), but about my identity.  I can't help but think that I'm behind, in terms of identity formation, and consequently, I lack conviction and abound in indecision.  One of the areas this indecision comes to light, for example, is real estate: I have yet to lay down roots and buy a place to call my own, and I'm near mid-life!

I realize that I'm describing this self-realization in negative terms, and that God "writes straight with our crooked lines".  There are some positive aspects to my vocational trajectory that should not be left out.  I'm quite flexible, for one thing.  Theoretically, I can identify with many marketplace activities, because I've participated in many of them.  In terms of practical skills, I can paint a house, I can hire, train, and fire someone; I can organize a department or home, and I can speak words of comfort and encouragement in times of great pain and disappointment.  In God's economy, all of these skills are valuable.

But my tendency lately - perhaps it's a human tendency - is to focus on the negative aspects of myself.  I see the things that I lack, rather than the goodness that abounds.  Maybe this is because of the profound dissatisfaction, disappointment, even emptiness that I feel when I consider my brokenness.  And these feelings of inadequacy affect my life, my interactions with the world around me, so they matter a great deal.

So what is the way forward?  What next?

I am somewhat hopeful primarily because of the last 2 years, spent both in the classroom and at bedside.  I sense a rightness in my direction that I have not sensed before.  I don't know how this rightness will translate into personal fulfillment and financial stability, but I live with a sense of anticipation as to how this will materialize.

But it has to be said that since returning from Spain, my sense of hopefulness is quite often eclipsed by a sense of anxiety, anguish, and acedia.  Except for the odd painting job for a friend or two, I'm not really working at the moment.  The distant future may be bright in terms of clinical pastoral jobs in my city, but the short to medium term looks cloudy at best.  I have too much time to think, and don't spend enough time actively engaged in the concrete matters of the world.  I lack motivation and feel emotionally stagnant and disconnected.  Even faith, family and friendships aren't providing the stable support that they have in the past.

I'm left, then, with a Revelation that cuts both ways.  It's sobering, inviting me to see the brokenness within myself, and deal with it.  It invites me to look in the mirror and see the demons within me which want to keep me from becoming fully human, which want to prevent my being formed more and more into the image of Jesus.  It's a call to repentance.

On the positive side, God is inviting me to see the already good within me.  God is at work deep inside me, even though it's not always evident.  Truthfully, I feel distant and in many ways alienated from God, but His invitation to see the Good inside stands.

Both sides, the positive and the negative, are ultimately an invitation to further intimacy and union with Him.  

Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have Mercy on me, a Sinner! 

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Camino de Santiago: Concluding Thoughts


Today is my last day in Santiago.  Tonight at 11pm I take a bus to Pamplona where I will visit with Juan for a few days before returning home. I offer here some thoughts on my Camino experience.

* preparation matters: in terms of packing, I did well.  I fit all my belongings in a 36L backpack. I should've been better prepared in terms of footwear though.  One-year old, wornout trekking shoes don't cut it.

* there's healing in walking: say what you will, but the human spirit is refreshed, renewed, and rejuvenated by walking. 

* Spain's cup of coffee, the café con leche, is by far the best cup of coffee I've ever tasted.

* other specialties, like the biscocho cake, jamón iberico or jamón serrano, and sopa de lentejas, are all well worthy of high praises.

* go wooly: synthetics stink.  Wool, on the other hand, keeps you cool in the heat, warm in the cold, and it doesn't stink.  It does take some getting used to in terms of wearing (itchy), and it's not very strong or sturdy.

* religious: Spain is less secular than expected.  I'm sure this is because the places I visited and the people I met are familiar with or even committed to the spiritual life.  Still, refreshing.

* walking limits: my limit seems to be 20 kms per day.  25kms is uncomfortable but do-able occasionally, and 30+ kms is downright painful.

* openness: the high number of pilgrims I met who were open to talk about God seem to indicate that people are searching for meaning.  "I want to have hope", said Markus.

* reading discipline: I'm glad that I brought a New Testament along.  I read through the first two gospels and had plenty of time for reflection.

* tempranillo: finally a red wine that I can drink without getting a headache.  Spanish red wine.  And not only the tempranillo, but the crianza too.  And it's ok to chill red wine in the fridge!

* sharing sucks: if you don't believe me, try sharing a bathroom with 20 others.  It's a stretching experience.  Wear flip-flops.

* small towns: I'd like to live in one, one day.  There's a seeming simplicity to living in a small town that I find really appealing.  But I imagine that it can be a lonely place too, if you're an outsider.
 
* company: I enjoyed walking alone, sometimes.  On the Primitivo there are less people, which means that I spent a lot of time alone.  I think I'd have enjoyed the walking experience more with a trusted friend or companion.  Jennifer would've been such a partner, even though our walking limits differ.  I'd gladly compromise, to accommodate her.

* irony: why is it that even though I feel lonely at times I push people away?  There were a number of opportunities to mingle and get to know others, but I often shied away, spending time alone instead.

* self-acceptance: I have not accepted myself yet.  Is it just me or do others feel like they're a failure too?

* closed doors: I wish more churches or chapels were open along the way.  I'd probably have walked slower, and found more places to force myself to reflect. 

* walking stick: I'm torn.  A stick does help when walking, especially when walking long distances.  It helps me keep my balance.  But I don't like always having something in my hands while I walk.

* rhythmic prayer: the Jesus Prayer and prayer beads are the solution to a wandering mind.  Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have Mercy on me, a Sinner!

Monday, October 15, 2012

Pilgrim's Mass: Take 2

I attended Mass again today, but whereas yesterday I sat in the main nave of the church, today I sat in the transept.  I was much closer to the front, and had a better view of the botafumeiro.



For much of the rest of the day I walked around the city and took pictures.










Santiago is a city that seems entirely immersed in the Camino experience.  Everything in the city, at least in the old core, seems to revolve around the Way of St. James.  Sure, much of it is a tourist trap, but I dare say that faith is quite alive in the city.  For example, I saw at least two bookstores - one of them quite large - right in the middle of the city.  

But what struck me about these bookstores is that in addition to the many books with tourist appeal, both had a substantial selection of theological books.  I spent a good 2 hours browsing through interesting titles and authors, from C S Lewis to G. K. Chesterton, from Pope Gregory the Great to John Paul II and Pope Benedict, from St. Francis to St. Benedict to St. Teresa of Avila, and from Karl Rahner to Henri de Lubac.  I even saw a book or two of the Reformed tradition, by Karl Barth, for example.  Surprising.

Many books were available in various languages.  And the stores were packed.  Lots of customers. I'm not sure a city's spiritual well-being can be judged by the number and kind of theological books it has on offer, but at the same time, I'm not willing to discount that possibility either.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Pilgrim's Mass in Santiago

Today was a day to savour my arrival at Santiago.

I slept in in the morning.

I went to the cathedral to take more pictures.



 I attended the Pilgrim's Mass.  The botafumeiro was a bit of a spectacle, but it was impressive.  The sermon was, well, let's just say there's room for improvement.  But the liturgy, the Mass, absolutely glorious.  I'm more convinced than ever that the unity of the church is most vivid and present in the living Christ who gives himself to us in the bread and wine.  




I really like the plaque above.  It's placed near the tomb of the Apostle James, and it contains the words of Pope John Paul II, himself a Camino pilgrim, and reads:

"I, bishop of Rome and Pastor of the Catholic Church, send to you, old Europe, from Santiago, a cry of love: Return and find yourself, be yourself."

I'd say it's a challenge, an indictment, but probably most of all a lament, for Europe to find herself, to find her true identity again.  She's lost her spiritual roots, those elements that made her glorious once.  And in losing her roots, she's lost her identity, her means of being a blessing to the world.

After Mass I went for a snack with Leah and Cathy, pictured below.



Saturday, October 13, 2012

Day 17: O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela (20 Kms)

I got up at 7:15 this morning and immediately noticed that I was one of the last pilgrims to get up that "late".  In fact, many had already begun walking.  I'd heard a few days prior that pilgrims begin walking really early here, with the hopes of arriving in Santiago in time for the Pilgrim's Mass at noon.  Turns out this is actually true!

After drinking a coffee, I began walking too.

I still had to wear my frontales (head lamp), as the picture below indicates, because it was still too dark, especially in forested areas.



But even after sunrise, it was foggy until well after 10.




 Just after 10am I stopped at Casa Porta de Santiago for a bicocho and a hot chocolate.

Today's route was pretty easy, no ups and downs, just pretty much a straight road.  This is probably the main reason that I did excellent time, arriving in Santiago at 1:30pm.  By 2:30 I had my Compostela (certificate).



I walked around the main city square and cathedral area, taking pictures, and eventually ran into Leah and Cathy, a mother-and-daughter team from Vancouver Island that I'd met yesterday on the road.  They'd walked all the way from St. Jean Pied de Port.  We took some pictures, before agreeing to meet up again for the Pilgrim's Mass tomorrow.



At 4:30 I checked into my pre-arranged accommodations, the Pension Badalada.

The next few hours were priceless: lying in bed, reflecting, napping, showering, shaving (!), and watching Lord of the Rings, which happened to be showing on tv at the time.

I ate dinner at Rúa Bella, a restaurant owned by an Argentinian.  The hostess at Badalada, too, is from Argentina.

A few emotional moments worth mentioning about today.

1- leaving the albergue "for the last time."  Although I didn't write much about friendships formed over the past few weeks, I do think that a certain camaraderie is established among Camino pilgrims at the hostels.  Pilgrims are "linked" to each other - because of the blisters, the meals, the exhaustion, the elation, the disappointments and the successes - in a way that perhaps only someone who's walked the Way can understand.

2- entering the outskirts of Santiago.  There was definitely a "buzz" among the Pilgrims.  Spirits were high, pain was either forgotten or ignored, cameras were out, and smiles were on everyone's faces.  This was definitely contagious.  I teared up on several occasions.

3- crossed fences.  As the two pictures below show, the Camino passed a number of fences that were filled with stick-crosses.  Walking by what seemed like kilometers of cross-filled fences was very emotional for me.  When did this tradition begin?  Who are the people who put them up?  What are their stories, pre-, during, and post-Camino?  These were questions that raced through my head.  

I also noticed that there were numerous partial crosses that people had placed strategically - either horizontally or vertically - along the fence, inviting me to "complete" the cross.  Where a horizontal stick was already placed, I would add the vertical stick to make it into a cross, or where a vertical stick had been placed, I completed it by adding the horizontal piece.  I participated in this tradition, walking slowly, meditating on the significance that each of these crosses could hold.  A few times I began weeping, not really caring if others saw me in such a "weak" state.  On one occasion another pilgrim smiled compassionately.  On another occasion a local nodded his head forward in what seemed like some kind of solidarity.  It was beautiful, sacred, perhaps one of the most holy moments of the entire Way.



4- arrival at the Cathedral.  Naturally, this was a highlight, but there were so many people around, it was hard to be present in the moment, much less dwell on the significance of the accomplishment.  All in all, a bit anti-climactic.

Below is the video I took upon arrival at the cathedral.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Day 16: Arzúa - Pedrouzo (17 Kms)

Another great night's sleep on the Camino.  What I've learned in the past few weeks is that physical exhaustion is a significant factor towards ensuring a good, sound sleep!  And yes, there was heating.  I was able to keep warm all night.

Below is a picture of a coffee bar at breakfast, full of pilgrims getting ready for the day's walk.  This picture was taken after 8am.  It was still dark outside.


It rained on and off throughout the morning.  Even so, the way was packed with many walkers.  And whereas in previous days I'd encountered a maximum of 20 pilgrims in a day (and this only happened once, maybe twice), today I encountered a number easily surpassing 100.  I couldn't help but think of the Grouse Grind throughout today's walk.

At around 11:20 I arrived in Salceda, having already completed 9 kms.  In Salceda enjoyed a fabulous bocadillo de ternera with an iced tea.

Shortly after I resumed walking, I encountered this make-shift shrine (below), commemorating previous pilgrims who'd walked the Camino and died along the way.  I heard a story about a man who'd walked the entire Camino Francés and then promptly collapsed on this stretch of the road.  Hearing this story reminded me of the numerous dangers that previous pilgrims had to endure to get to Santiago.  I'm thankful that today the road is very safe.


I found Pedrouzo a bit unusual, because there were farms interspersed in the middle of town.  The picture below, for example, was taken a mere block and a half from the main road.


For me the highlight of Pedrouzo was the small but lovely church.  It's such a gem.  At the back of the church, behind the altar, is a gigantic shell, carved into the wall.  The picture below gives an idea of what I'm referring to.


I ate dinner at Café Che, and I ate spaghetti bolognese.  I think this may only be the 2nd or 3rd time that I ate pasta since beginning the Camino.

The albergues on the French route are much bigger than on the Primitive route.  Here in Pedrouzo, for example, there are upwards of 80 people staying in the hostel.  This makes for a cozy atmosphere, to be sure, but it makes using the washrooms rather unpleasant.  Today by the time I got to use the shower, there was no hot water left.

I'm excited, thrilled.  Tomorrow is the last day of walking.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Day 15: Sobrado Dos Monxes - Arzúa (23 Kms)

After going a week without walking, I was itching to get back on the road this morning.

I got up early, I was ready to go by 7:15am.  At 7:30 I went to Mass.  I'm tired of attending without being able to partake.  Other than that, beautiful, inviting liturgy.

After Mass, I had breakfast with my Spaniard friends one last time.  We gave each other a warm going-away hug at the end, before saying farewell, Godspeed!

I hit the road around 8:30, with a bittersweet feeling.  Bitter - enveloped in feelings of loss, longing and loneliness; sweet - encouraged by conversations with the various staff, monks and reteratants; and eager to see what lay ahead on the Camino.

As I began walking, my eyes were tear-filled.  Why?



I stopped for a coffee at the 7.5km mark in Carredoras.  The hostess there was a very friendly lady who was not at all shy about telling me of all the troubles burdening her beloved España.

Lord Jesus Christ, Son of the Living God, have mercy on Spain!

At the 13.5km mark I stopped in Sendelle, were a very friendly lady gave me a tour of the town church.


As soon as I left Sendelle it began to pour, and I walked in the rain for a good hour before it stopped and the sun tried to peak through.


I arrived in Arzúa late afternoon, and noticed immediately that this was a very busy town.  That's because here the various routes converge before the final stretch to Santiago.

Unlike at previous locations where there was always a bed available at the inn, here I was turned away a few times before I finally found lodging at the Albergue Los Caminantes.  The hospitalera here is an energetic woman, a firecracker, really, who welcomed all of us pilgrims with great  enthusiasm and good humour.

As I headed out for dinner a few hours later (and still way too early for the rest of Spain to head out for dinner), it began to rain again.  I ate dinner at Restaurante Carballeira.  I journalled there for quite a while, before, during, and after my meal.

Below, a picture of the soup, caldo gallego, that I enjoyed for dinner.

The weather's chilly.  I hope the hostel has heating.