Sunday, October 07, 2012

Day 14: Lugo - San Román de Retorta (19 Kms)

Going for a 20km walk?  Try this on for breakfast: a massive sausage, 2 eggs, patatas fritas, a loaf of bread, and a café con leche!


Given our fairly short itinerary today, only 19kms of walking, and given that we wouldn't be looking for a place to stay in San Román, Jen and I decided to sleep in and not rush our day.  We woke up at 8:30, left Brios at 9:30, and only started walking after breakfast, at 10:30.

Less than three hours into our walk we arrived at Canedo, where we stopped for a drink and a rest at As Seras.  Canedo has, as any good small town in Spain does, two staples: a church and a bar.



Overall, today's route was rather boring.  The first half was mostly on pavement, which is hard on my feet.  A couple sections were a bit dangerous too, in terms of oncoming traffic.  Our guidebook warned that this may happen, and our experience confirmed it.


Most of the areas we walked through had farms, such as the one below.


Towards the end, we walked through a couple forests, near Bacurín.


But even though the scenery was boring, walking with Jennifer was a nice change from previous days.  Knowing her for 4+ years means that I have a comfort level, a way of being, that goes much deeper and is much "safer" than any other relationship in recent years.  We only speak when someone has something to say, and it doesn't have to be anything significant, it can be something quite mundane, and it usually is.  And better yet, I almost never feel like I have to say anything at all.  

In years past I'd have been uncomfortable being with someone and yet not saying anything, but I've come to treasure that in our friendship.  I've begun measuring closeness with someone else not terms of how much is said between us, but in terms of how we fare with silence: if I can't be silent with someone, I'm not sure I can be with them at all.

We arrived in San Román at 3:30, and bought ourselves a coffee at the local bar.  I was pleasantly surprised when a local Spaniard offered to give us a ride back to Lugo.  He was going that way anyways, he said.  "How kind!", I thought.  Forty five minutes later, I was equally surprised - and disappointed - to find out that the driver had a sick wife, sister and mother, and that he was unemployed and had 2 kids to feed.  He wanted 30 Euros for the ride.  Latin America made more sense after this experience.

We ate dinner at  Povio's, or Porio's, or something along those lines.  I ate filete de ternera, with a tortilla francesa, patatas, ensalada, and accompanied by an albariño wine.

Towards the end of the evening I got quite annoyed with Jennifer because she spent a long time looking for something on her tablet.  I felt ignored, but I didn't mention anything to her and just went to sleep.

Tomorrow we will leave Lugo and head for Sobrado.

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