Tuesday, March 03, 2009

México City: Céntro Histórico

Today was a long day! We got home (Marty and Ruth's) absolutely exhausted, at about 9pm, after a super eventful day. Here's how it went...

Morning: as we did yesterday, we got up around 8am, not too early, not too late. Marty'd prepared a nice and simple breakfast for us: fresh fruits (papaya, mango, melons, and watermelon), juice, and coffee. By 8:30, Sanjit, Jennifer and I'd washed up, eaten breakfast, drank coffee, and gotten ourselves ready for an eventful day. Marty and Ruth'd mapped out a "plan of attack" for us last night, places for us to visit today. They'd suggested about 10 different things for us to do, knowing full well that we'd only accomplish - at best - 4 or 5 of them. There's just so much to see, so much to do.

Ruth'd also given us detailed instructions on how to get from their neighbourhood, Cafetáles, to the céntro histórico of Mexico City. So shortly after 8:30, we left Ruth and Marty's place. We walked to Cañaverales, where we got on a micro bus which took us to a metro stop, and from there we took the metro to the Palacio de Bellas Artes.


































It was my first encounter with the history and culture of Mexico, and an impressive encounter it was. The Palace of Fine Arts was a beautiful building, clean and well kept. Unfortunately we got there before it opened, and because it was Monday and we didn't know if it would open (most museums are closed on Mondays), we didn't stick around, but rather, we went on to Tacuba street in order to go to a breakfast place Ruth and Marty'd suggested: Café Tacuba.

We were not disappointed with the restaurant. It used to be an ex-convent, that was evident in the religious art inside the building. The highlight for me was the Café con Leche (coffee extract, served in a tall glass, filled with milk) though. It was the best coffee I´d tasted in months!















































After Café Tacuba, we continued on, towards the Zócalo, the central square of the city. I would later find out that every single city has a Zócalo, surrounded by the Catedrál and a government building. In our particular case, the Catedrál was none other than the Catedrál de la Asunción de Maria, the largest and oldest cathedral in the Americas, and the Palacio Nacionál. The Zócalo was impressive in size, probably the equivalent of two square blocks, but disappointing in its lack of greenery. Not a single tree, not a single blade of grass; just a giant square of concrete stone.









































We went inside the national palace, and looked a the Diego Rivera murales. Again, I was impressed by the art and history the murals told of. The building itself, while not particularly creative in its architecture, it was nevertheless effective in communicating stability in its simplicity.

























































By the time we finished a tour of the murals with a guy who described himself as a true mestízo Mexican, we were quite hungry. Time had flown by, and it was now past 1pm.

Afternoon: Ruth and Marty´d suggested that for lunch we go to a restaurant that has a terrace with a nice view, just around the corner from the cathedral, but we were disappointed to find out upon our arrival there that the restaurant is closed on Mondays. We did, however, manage to go to the terrace and take a few pictures.

In the first picture below, the cathedral is to the right, the flat surface in the middle (towards the back) is the Zócalo, and the Palacio Nacionál is to the far left. In front and to the left is the Templo Mayór, the ancient Aztec temple. The cathedral was more or less built over the Aztec temple, representing the replacement of pagan gods with the Christian God of the Bible.











































Exhausted and still hungry, we continued our search for a place to eat lunch, finally settling for a hotel-restaurant nearby. I don`t remember the name of the place, but that´s just as well, I don´t have anything good to say about it anyways.

After lunch though, we went back out into the mid-afternoon heat, headed for the cathedral. As we walked up to the church we noticed that we could get a tour of the bell tower, so we paid the $40 pesos or so to take in the tour. It was not a special tour by any stretch of the imagination, but I did manage to take the next picture from top of the cathedral. The view overlooks the zócalo.















After the tour we went back down and entered the church. I´d previously decided not to take pictures inside churches on this trip, but made an exception here. Here´s the capílla, the chapel, upon entering the church.
The sanctuary was behind the chapel.















Our final goal for the day was to go up to the top of the Torre Latinoamericana, built in 1956, and Mexico´s tallest landmark until 1984. A couple brown cows (Alfonso 13, as they´re called there) - kahlúa and milk on ice - went down very nicely, while taking in the breathtaking view.






















































Here are some pictures of the Zócalo, la Catedrál, and the Palacio Nacionál. The first one was taken shortly after 6pm, the second picture was taken at about 6:45, the third one at 7pm, and the last one at 7:15pm.






















































At around 7:30 in the evening we began making our way home, taking the same route we took in the morning. We got onto the metro at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and 20 minutes later switched to a micro for the final stretch.

We didn´t eat any dinner at all, but I was ok with that. I was more tired than hungry.

Tomorrow´s going to be another crazy-busy day. We`re going to visit the pyramides at Teotihuacaán.

Monday, March 02, 2009

México City: Barbacoa, Fútbol!

Wow, what a day, this 2nd day of the trip!

We began the day after a good night's sleep. The first thing on the agenda was barbacoa, tender sheep meat, cooked slowly over an open fire (or traditionally, cooked in a hole dug in the ground).

On our way to the open-air market, we bought some freshly squeezed orange juice: no concentrate, no water, just pure orange juice. Once at the market Ruth and Marty took over, ordering all the right stuff for our breakfast. Barbacoa on its own is not picante, but as is the case with most Mexican food, you just add spice by way of salsas, lots of salsas.

Below, from left to right: Marty, Sanjit, Jennifer.














From left (far side of table): Ruth's mom (Ruth), Ruth, Marty, Mauricio (Ruth's friend), Sanjit, and Jennifer.














Our cooks:














After a scrumptious breakfast, we walked a few blocks to the "Eje 3" avenue where we took a taxi to the Estadio Universatario. Next up: a partido de fútbol (soccer game), between the UNAM Pumas from Mexico City and the Tigres from Monterrey. The game started at noon, but we got there just after 11am, in order to take in some of the atmosphere and buy our souvenirs.

In addition, we met up with some other long lost souls: Tatiana and Ruben, ex-Vancouver soccerinos who've returned to their home soil. This trip, after all, is sort of a reunion trip, bringing together friends that met up on the soccer fields of Jericho Beach.

Here we are, soccerinos in Mexico City! From left to right: Jennifer, Ruben, Cub, Marty, Tatiana, Ruth, and Sanjit.















Jennifer:














Jennifer and Cub:














The game itself was fell-fought. It was a hot and sunny day, so we all wore headgear to keep us from getting sunburnt. The atmosphere was good, not awesome, but good. I guess once you've been to a World Cup game or two, all other games are just "good" or "great"...

The stadium:














The next picture was taken with about 3 minutes left in the game. The Tigres had 5 minutes earlier tied the game at 1, after the Pumas had led most of the game. Here the Pumas just about score the go-ahead goal, but the arquero (goalkeeper) makes a great save.















Here's the game-winning goal. It came with about a minute left in the game. The goal-scorer is none other than Dante Lopez, a Paraguayan striker who'd just been substituded into the game about a minute earlier. His first touch on the ball was a header that found the back of the net. Needless to say, I was a very happy fan. I made sure that everyone around us knew where the striker hailed from. Final score: Pumas 2 - Tigres 1.















The stadium wasn't full, but the hardcore fans were there and they let themselves be heard. Here they are, chanting and waving their flags after the game-winning goal.















The game ended about 2pm, and I'm glad it did, because I was hot, thirsty, and hungry. We went to a nice restaurant on the grounds of the UNAM (Universidad Nacional Autonoma de México).















If barbacoa and a soccer game wasn't enough activity for a day, then adding a 2nd game to our agenda certainly was, and that's exactly what we did! After a hurried lunch (lunch, by the way, was so-so, I had a sandwich with papas fritas. The french fries were good, but my sandwich-bread was stale), we took another taxi, this time to another stadium, the mythical Estadio Aztéca.

The stadium is mítico for a reason. It's massive: it seats 110,000 fans; that's 5+ times the size of GM Place, and almost double the size of BC Place. More than the size though, history also adds to the glory of the stadium. As far as I know, it's the only stadium in the world that has hosted 2 World Cup finals, in 1970 and 1986. The two best players to ever have graced the game played in the two final games: Pelé in 1970 (Brasil 4 - Italia 1), and Maradona (Argentina 3 - Deutschland 2).

Enough said. The stadium:














The home team at the Aztéca is Club América,where another Paraguayan striker plays. In fact, I believe Salvador Cabañas was the highest scoreer in the Mexican league in 2007, and he was voted the best player in all of South America that year. Along with the Mexican goalkeeper Guillermo Ochoa, he's the heart and soul of Club America.

At a souvenir booth:















Unfortunately, on this occasion, his team lost 2-0, to San Luís de Potosí. Here was a wasted scoring opportunity for América (in yellow).















Nevertheless, it was a lot of fun attending the game. One of the great things about fútbol is that no matter how badly the home team does, there are always a group of loyalists who cheer the team on. These fans are the true fans, they stick to the team in good times and in bad, win or lose. Here are the Americanistas:















Us (minus Ruth and Marty who couldn't attend the game) before and after the game:





























Beer was definitely the drink of choice. Perhaps that's why this bucket of pop bottles was left unattended.














Impression of the day: Mexican fútbol is good, but not excellent. It seems like the soccer here has lots of dancing - highly skilled ball-manouvering - but little headwork, little intellect; too much passion and not enough tactical work. Argentina and Brasil have the same technical know-how, but added to it is a strategic element that adds a great deal of class to the game. It's not just about the heart, it's also about the head.

Sunday, March 01, 2009

México City: Coyoacán

Today at around 7:30am I arrived safely in Mexico City, after about a 5.5 hour flight. My back was a bit sore upon arrival, but not too bad. I'm glad I've been going to massage therapy for the past month, because otherwise the flight would've been unbearable!















Looking out the window just before arrival in Mexico City:















Upon arrival at the airport, I immediately went to the taxi sitio and purchased my ticket to go to Ruth and Marty's in Colonia Cafetales. The price was $200 (pesos), about $20 Cdn, and the ride to their place was about 35 minutes long.

Upon arrival, Ruth, her mom (also Ruth), and Marty and I went out for breakfast. Virtually everything on the menu was picante (spicy), but I did manage to order something that didn't knock me out. I'm gonna have to work my body in slowly......the last thing I want is Moctezuma's revenge on day 1 of a 15 day trip!

In the afternoon Ruth and I went to Coyoacán, a very popular area in the Distrito Federal (DF). We walked through about a dozen or so streets, Ruth pointing out the main attractions, like the market area at the zócalo (central square):




































































The next picture exemplifies something that my good friend Eric pointed out to me after he visited Mexico City a year ago. He mentioned that amidst the chaos in the city (it is, after all, a city of 25+ million!), and amidst the substantial poverty, there are still many scenes that make you smile, many examples of grace, many scenes that humble you.

In his case, he'd noticed that a bunch of young boys, probably aged 8-12, were playing with marbles in a busy place, near a water fountain in a park. In my case, I noticed these young girls (below) playing in the market.

I find it strking that these girls are keeping themselves amused with 2 styrofoam cups, a plastic cup, and an empty pop bottle. They've probably never heard of Xbox or Wii, nevermind played it. I love how they're totally engaged in their activity. The youngest of the bunch even went out on her own and found her own entertainment,without cups or bottle!
















Once it started to get dark, we made our way to the metro. We needed to smake our way to the airport in time for Sanjit's arrival at around 8:30pm, and then Jennifer's, at 10pm.

On our way to the metro we walked by a hip coffee shop called El Jarocho. According to Ruth, this is the hippest coffee shop in Coyoacán, if not the city, and judging by the atmosphere she's probably right. The place was not that big, but it was buzzing with people. It was packed, and lineups were out the door and onto the vereda (sidewalk), and those who already had their coffee stuck around, sitting on sidewalk benches on a warm weekend night in Mexico City.

We also walked by the Frida Kahlo museum, which is also the house she grew up in.















There were no delays with Sanjit and Jennifer's flights. Upon their arrival we got onto a taxi, and taking the same route I'd previously taken in the morning, we made our way to Marty and Ruth's.

I'm tired, and ready to hit the sack.

Impression of the day: based on my first day in the Distrito Federal, I like this city. It has a Latin feel to it: chaotic, yet full of life.